He takes you on a world tour: Sri Lankan tuna, Japanese striped jack, Greek sea bream, British Columbian uni, and on and on. YasuĬhef Yasuhisa Ouchi of Yasu presents glossy nigiri on cut-glass trays to 11 lucky guests seated at a marble-topped bar. The night ended in a procession of sushi, handed across the counter at the exact moment it should be eaten.
On one visit, Kaji’s omakase included nori-wrapped rolls of rice and fluke, lightly deep-fried and set in a house-made soy sauce a warm block of custard-like sesame tofu sashimi dusted with yuzu zest and fanned out with a shiso leaf and steamed turnip with a briny dollop of Boston uni and a hash of lightly breaded and deep-fried scallops. The best of the 28 seats here face the open sushi prep area, where chef Mitsuhiro Kaji-the closest thing Toronto has to Tokyo’s Jiro Ono-surgically slices through glistening slabs of fish flown in that morning from Japan. He ages his own soy sauce over six months, and servers grind fresh wasabi tableside. Tsuyoshi Yoshinaga, the sushi chef, builds ikebana-like displays out of petals of mackerel, hamachi, sea bream, fatty Scottish salmon and precious tuna belly. The kitchen flies in top-quality fish, mostly from Japanese suppliers. The latest from the Chase Hospitality Group, Yorkville’s Kasa Moto is currently the city’s swankiest izakaya (no one yells “Irasshaimase!” when you enter).
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